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Saldusis saldus
You can’t help but think of Alois Kracher’s description of Scheurebe as “my Riesling” when you taste his 2004 #4 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen. A concentration of lemon and grapefruit gives this wine an electric presence. Distilled black fruits, ginger, fresh peach, caramelized pineapple, mineral salts, and a liqueur-like herbal essence add ravishing complexity and succulence and the finish is brash and brassy in the manner of a trumpet choir. Then comes a revelation: this wine has 14% alcohol. How could it? Talk about sublimation in the service of art! The alcohol seems to have been burned as fuel.
The Kracher winery in Austria is located next to Lake Neusiedl. It is one of the few places in the world where practically every year it is possible to grow and harvest a proper harvest affected by noble rot and to produce sweet wines. It is the sweet Kracher wines that have gained worldwide recognition and various titles, the producer himself has been recognized as the winemaker of the year five times, and one of the most famous wine critic Robert Parker rates Kracher wines the highest (the only Austrian wine is rated 100 points!). Kracher wine is characterized by harmony, as the sweetness is offset and balanced by refreshing acids, and the most complex wines are exceptionally long-lasting and become an object of collection.
