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Raudonasis sausas
The Cabernet Franc-based 2012 Le Dôme is the most reticent and inward of Jonathan Maltus's 2012s. Readers will find very little of the vintage's early appeal here. Instead, Le Dôme is a big, dramatic wine that is likely to require at least a few years in bottle to come together. A host of dark cherry, plum and smoke notes gradually emerge in the glass, but the 2012 needs time. The only question is how much. Still, I am quite drawn by this fabulous Saint-Emilion that touches Angelus on one side and Canon on the others. Drinking window 2018 - 2032.
This St.-Emilion (1,000 cases), which has a very high percentage of Cabernet Franc (80%, which is much higher than Cheval Blanc or Ausone) has always been the flagship wine of proprietor Jonathan Malthus. The 2012 has a dense ruby/purple color and plenty of raspberry and blueberry fruit intermixed with spring flower garden notes, which are followed by a medium-bodied wine with stunning elegance, purity and minerality. It is not the biggest wine, but the quality of the fruit, the complex nuances, and overall equilibrium make for a very special Bordeaux to drink over the next 15 or so years.
In 1994 Jonathan Malthus, Englishman originally from Africa, realized his old dream – sold his industrial engineering firm and bought a vineyard in the heart of French winemaking - Bordeaux, Saint-Emillione. Arriving in Saint-Émilion during the ‘garage period’ in the 1990s when breaking the rules of classic Bordeaux was all the rave, Jonathan soon gained a reputation for being able to produce a range of wines which stood out just as successfully for being unique as for being top quality. Bold winemaking technologies: extremely low yields, double grape re-harvesting, low-temperature fermentation, helped British winemaker make the Saint-Emillion grand cru list. Mr. Maltus has always been a strong believer that a bottle of wine should be judged by the taste of its contents over the ‘big name’ label slapped on the front.
